A Local’s Guide to the 3rd Arrondissement: Life in the Haut-Marais

The 3rd arrondissement of Paris is one of the city's most densely packed and enchanting quartiers where you’ll find no shortage of café terraces, niche museums and galleries, and unique local spots. After three years of living in this exceptional Parisian neighborhood, here are some of my top picks for where to go and what to do.

May 15, 2025 - 08:04

A Local’s Guide to the 3rd Arrondissement: Life in the Haut-Marais

The 3rd arrondissement of Paris is one of the city’s most densely packed and enchanting quartiers where you’ll find no shortage of café terraces, niche museums and galleries, and unique local spots. This neighborhood ranked 23rd on Time Out’s list of the coolest neighborhoods in the world, the only Parisian neighborhood to make the cut.

A brick building with greenery growing on its facade.

From rue Saint Gilles to rue de Bretagne, you’ll find the comfort and beauty of Paris enhanced by a local feel. The 3rd arrondissement of Paris is the area I call home and no doubt my favorite part of the city. It is a privilege to live in such a central location, where it’s easy to get to any part of Paris by bus or metro. But like many Parisians in this quartier, I’d rather spend my free time in the 3rd arrondissement than anywhere else in Paris.

You’ll find me there on sunny afternoons, peeking through gallery windows at new photography exhibitions, or enjoying a picnic in Place des Vosges. After three years of living in this exceptional Parisian neighborhood, here are some of my top picks for where to go and what to do.

3rd Arrondissement, Paris – Neighborhood Overview

The 3rd arrondissement of Paris, also known as the Haut-Marais, offers a more local feel of Paris while also having everything available to meet the needs and expectations of visitors. You’ll find a wide variety of stylish restaurants, bars and speakeasies scattered along very walkable streets, also full of great window shopping for clothes, jewelry, and the souvenirs you didn’t know you were looking for.

Chic vintage stores have also gained popularity in the area, and there are many pop-up spaces where these stores circulate, so there’s always something new to discover.

Haussmanian building rising above the treetops.

Haussmanian building on a street corner.

One of the 3rd’s most distinctive traits is its diverse art scene ; if you go walking on a Thursday evening, you’ll find “vernissages”, or gallery-openings, around every corner. You can also always wander down one of the main streets in the 3rd, rue de Turenne, if you want to gallery-hop.

Whatever you do in the 3rd, it’s always a great place to spend a weekend afternoon, or really any day!

Where to Eat and Drink in the 3rd arrondissement

Merci Used Book Café, attached to the Merci store, offers cozy cappuccinos, pastries, and a classic petit dejeuner menu. It’s one of my favorite spots for coffee, with excellent people watching if you sit outside or by the window.

White is a small “à emporter” coffee shop on gallery-lined rue de Turenne. It’s perfect for when you’re just craving a latté or flat white done well. I often stop by with my french bulldog on our way to the park.

Exterior of White Coffee, with bikes out front and a glimpse at people inside. — White Coffee

Sevenly Heart is a newer local favorite that opened in 2023, just across from Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature on rue des Archives. It has a beautiful aesthetic, cozy atmosphere and delicious lattés.

Cave Saint Gilles, my favorite restaurant in the city, serves Spanish tapas, cocktails and paella. I always order a few tapas and share with friends or family; patatas bravas, croquetas chorizo, pulpo, and queso manchego. I also love the fruity cocktails, particularly “El Romantico”. The service is friendly and fast.

Cave St. Gilles, with a wooden facade and people dining out front. — Cave St. Gilles

A wide shot of cave st Gilles, at the street level of a haussmanian building on a street corner. — Cave St. Gilles

Mai Thai is another favorite; an incredible Thai restaurant with the best curries, Pad Thai, and more. My mom and I often have lunch dates there, inevitably ordering the chicken panang curry every time.

La Royale is a more classic Parisian café, with a large covered terrace and all of the favorites, such as salade césar and soupe à l’oignon. It’s my go-to place for a late night croque monsieur after a rock concert in the neighboring 11th arrondissement..

Exterior shot of the covered patio in front of La Royale. — La Royale

Exterior of Gracie, with a black awning and people sitting out front. — La Royale

Other Restaurants and Cafés in the 3rd Arrondissement:

Marché Couvert des Enfants Rouges: 39 Rue de Bretagne, 75003 Paris
Auberge Nicolas Flamel: 51 rue de Montmorency, 75003 Paris
Parcelles: rue Chapon, 75003 Paris
Breizh Café: 109 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Paris
Gramme 3: 86 rue des Archives
Candelaria: 52 rue de Saintonge, 75003 Paris
Chez Janou: 2 rue Roger Verlomme, 75003 Paris
Derrière: 69 rue des Gravilliers, 75003 Paris
Maison Brochette: 10 rue du Grenier-Saint-Lazare, 75003 Paris
Sinner Restaurant: 116 rue du Temple, 75003 Paris
Les Enfants du Marché: 39 Rue de Bretagne (within Marché des Enfants Rouges), 75003 Paris
Carboni’s: 45 rue de Poitou
Elmer: 30 Rue Notre Dame de Nazareth, 75003 Paris
Yansai: 23 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003 Paris
Datil: 13 rue des Gravilliers, 75003 Paris

What to Do and See in the 3rd arrondissement

For a relaxing afternoon, the National Archives on rue des Francs Bourgeois offers free access to France’s history. They preserve archives from the Middle Ages and host expositions throughout the year, plus there’s a lovely garden.

A more popular museum is Musée Picasso, found in the middle of the 3rd on rue Thorigny. It houses an impressive collection of Picasso’s work, and the galleries take you winding up and down stairways and exploring the grand Hôtel Salé which is now the museum.

Musee Carnavalet is also worth checking out to learn about the history of Paris. The museum also has a fantastic restaurant, Fabula, which has a limited seasonal menu and a beautiful garden to dine in. Having lunch there is one of my most highly anticipated spring activities.

Musee des Arts et Metiers showcases science and technology development through time, featuring many objects including scales, telescopes, typewriters and transportation, including airplanes! It’s great for all ages.

As for nightlife, there are a variety of speakeasies and wine bars to explore in the 3rd. Causeries is a cute wine bar off the busy street of rue de Parc Royal, with great wine and affordable cheese boards at just 10 euros.

The green facade of a cafe looking inside at tables and chairs. — Causeries

The Little Red Door is a notable speakeasy, while Candeleria is my favorite; a Mexican restaurant with a speakeasy through the “kitchen door”.

Finally, the cocktail bar Bisous creates personalized drinks for you after asking a few questions about your mood and preferences. The 3rd is great for a nice night out!

Shopping & Local Markets

For shopping, my go-to store is Merci. It’s a fashion and design store with great gifts. Their clothes can be expensive but they do also have some more affordable options as well as sales from time to time. Some of my favorite items there are the Assouline travel books, candles that come in fun shapes, and perfumes.

Exterior of the Merci store with people gathered in front.

For groceries, Maison Plisson on Boulevard Beaumarchais has the best quality products including fresh produce, healthy and delicious meals to go, and a selection of products for an apéritif such as cheeses and chips. They also have a healthy restaurant next door.

Marché Couvert des Enfants Rouges is a local food and grocery market open Tuesday-Sunday on rue de Bretagne. It’s a wonderland of food: Italian, Lebanese, Japanese, Moroccan, and more. My favorite is the Japanese bento from Chez Taeko. There are also usually booths on the street selling items like bags and jewelry, and a big bookshop right next door called “Comme un Roman”, with a selection of books in English too.

Entrance to Marche des Engant Rouges, with a gate in front of the alleyway and a sign above.

Outdoor Spaces In The 3rd Arrondissement of Paris

Parc Elie Wiesel is a lovely park not far from Marché des Enfants Rouges, lined with benches and perfect for a picnic, with a playground for kids.

Square Léopold Achille is another lovely small park, often hit by direct sunlight and the perfect place to soak it up. Right next door is Square Georges Cain, one of the few dog friendly parks in Paris. It’s perfect if you have a dog (or just love dogs), and beautiful roses bloom there every spring.

People on benches and dogs at Square Georges Cain — Square Georges Cain

Park benches on a path at Square du Temple, surrounded by bushes trees. — Square Georges Cain

Place des Vosges is found in the lower part of the 3rd, right where it meets the 4th arrondissement. It’s Paris’s oldest planned square, and on warm days, everyone picnics there on the green grass. It’s a Parisian paradise. Brigat glacier is the best ice cream place right across the street, with authentic Italian gelato. Trust me, skip the line at the nearby Amorino and go straight to Brigat – their stracciatella is to die for.

3rd ARrondissement -Public Transportation and Commute

The 3rd is very walkable, but when you need to come or go from the area, there are many convenient buses and metros as this arrondissement is part of “Paris Centre”, the middle of the city.

I take line 8 from Chemin Vert on my morning commute, which goes along the main boulevard on the eastern side of the 3rd. It can get very crowded during rush hour, but stops along a lot of convenient areas in the city.

My preferred line is line 1 from Bastille or Saint-Paul, which is actually in the 4th, but it’s a short walk from the lower part of the 3rd for a less crowded, more convenient metro.

Other metro stops include Temple for line 3, Arts et Metiers for lines 3 or 11, and Rambateau (near Musée Pompidou), also for line 11. Line 4 is also available nearby at Réamur-Sébastopol and Strasbourg Saint-Denis.

a metro stop at sunset with Haussmanian buildings in the background.

Bus lines that run through the 3rd include line 20, 34, 56, 75, and my favorite, 29, which goes through the Marais and all the way to Gare Saint-Lazare, a very scenic route.

Hidden Gems Only Locals Know About

Eclat is my favorite local coffee shop. Just a 7 minute walk from Bastille monument or 15 minutes from Republique, the small café is never too busy and a great place to bring a book or work on your laptop. The owner is very nice and knows my order : a chai latte. I have tasted chai lattes all around the city and have never found one with such soft milk foam and just the right amount of sweetness!

Exterior shot of Eclat Coffee, with windows covering the facade, outlined by pale green framing.

Distrito Frances is a great spot for Mexican food, which is not a very popular cuisine in Paris and can be hard to find. It’s a delicious, authentic restaurant with a great atmosphere and decor, and they have excellent frozen margaritas. I’ve never needed a reservation to get in – at their busiest they still had a spot at the bar. I recommend the “Captain Roshi” al pastor chicken tacos, but the “Sweet Beet” tacos are also an amazing option for vegetarians or vegans.

Ogata Japanese tea house is on a quiet street just off rue de Turenne, and is definitely a hidden gem. The restaurant serves authentic Japanese home cuisine made with seasonal ingredients. They also have tea tasting experiences that can be reserved.

There are many galleries on rue de Turenne loved by locals, but a great one is Massimo de Carlo Piece Unique, showcasing just one piece at a time. I also love Perrotin gallery, which is more well known but also an incredible space.

3rd ArrOndissement Safety

The 3rd is very safe. There are often enough people out to feel safe but it is not overly crowded. As for everywhere in Paris, you should just keep a hold on your bag and store valuables in case of pickpockets in the more crowded areas. These include the larger boulevards on its north and east side near Republique and Strasbourg Saint-Denis.

You should be especially careful on the metro. I never take my phone out of my bag on the metro unless the doors are closed, and I keep a very tight grip on it just in case. My aunt’s phone was stolen once and I had to help her file a report, which is a huge hassle.

I don’t often stay out very late into the night, but where I live near Boulevard Beaumarchais, I’ve always felt safe walking home past midnight with my girlfriends.

3rd arrondissement Paris Hotels

There’s no storage of lovely Airbnbs in the 3rd. Before I lived in my current apartment, I stayed on rue des Gravilliers for 6 weeks, which was a great location and felt like the most local area I had ever stayed in in Paris. My family also stayed in a very nice 3 bedroom airbnb on rue Roger Verlomme, it was a ground-level apartment next to the famous restaurant Chez Janou.

A man riding a bike in front of the restaurant Datil. — Rue de Gravilliers

As far as hotels, Hotel Sookie is a chic boutique hotel on rue Commines with 31 rooms, with a popular coffee shop that is open to the public. It is located just off rue de Turenne, very close to the line 8 metro stop Saint-Sebastien Froissart.

Hotel Sookie, with a pale green awning and facade.

La Chambre du Marais is another good hotel option on rue des Archives. It’s a fabulous location with a variety of room sizes, from their Cozy room with a double bed to their Parisienne suite.

Other hotels to check out in the 3rd arrondissement include:

Hôtel du Petit Moulin: 29/31 Rue de Picardie, 75003 Paris
Hotel Jules & Jim: 11 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003 Paris
La Chambre du Marais: 87 Rue des Archives, 75003 Paris
Hotel Georgette: 36 Rue de Grenier-Saint-Lazare, 75003 Paris
Hôtel National des Arts et Métiers: 243 Rue Saint-Martin, 75003 Paris
Les Bains Paris: 7 Rue du Bourg l’Abbé, 75003 Paris
Le Pavillon de la Reine & Spa : 28 Place des Vosges, 75003 Paris
Maison Proust, Hotel & Spa La Mer: 11 Rue de Picardie, 75003 Paris
Villa Beaumarchais: 5 Rue des Arquebusiers, 75003 Paris
UNE AUTRE CHAMBRE: 3 Rue Bailly, 75003 Paris
Boudoir des Muses: 6 Rue de Saintonge, 75003 Paris
Hôtel de Roubaix: 6 Rue de Roubaix, 75003 Paris
Hotel Sookie: 3 Rue de Picardie, 75003 Paris
Les Tournelles: 30 Rue de Turenne, 75003 Paris

The 3rd arrondissement : Frequently Asked Questions

Is the 3rd arrondissement expensive?

This really depends on where you go. Eating out can be expensive, but as a student, I’m usually able to find affordable lunch deals from boulangeries. But for a fancy date night out, you’ll find plenty of higher-end restaurants. Staying in the third, there are definitely more expensive posh hotels, but the more affordable boutique hotels and Airbnbs are really lovely too and will meet all of your needs. There’s also plenty to do for free, such as galleries and some of the museums. There’s also shopping for all price ranges.

Is the 3rd arrondissement good to stay in?

Yes! The 3rd arrondissement is a very central location of Paris. It’s walkable, but there are also plenty of metro and bus routes. It’s also safe and full of plenty of restaurants, shops, and entertainment.

What is the 3rd arrondissement known for?

The third arrondissement is known for its quaint romantic streets, but particularly its rich history. Here you’ll find narrow medieval cobblestone streets and a mix of newer Haussmann buildings, old Parisian mansions (often housing museums) and some surviving medieval and gothic architecture as well. The area is also known for its art scene, including galleries and small museums.

People strolling along a street, with Haussmanian buildings on either side.

Whether you’re a visitor seeking a more local Paris charm, or a local looking for new experiences, the 3rd arrondissement is a must see. Even after three years, I’ve found there’s no shortage of things to discover in Haut-Marais’s hidden cobblestone streets, cuisine and artistic scene.