5 hidden gems to visit in Brittany

Discover 5 hidden gems to visit in Brittany: this beautiful regional has a very distinctive identity is very distinctive, famous for its wealth of coastlines, countryside and culture as well as its Celtic roots.

Quimper (Finistère)

This charming city has cobbled streets of colourful timbered buildings and café-lined squares that are perfect for people-watching and a spot of springtime shopping. Take a wander and enjoy the spring sunshine at the fountain in Place Terre au Duc, indulge in crêpes in Place au Beurre and linger over drinks in Place Saint-Corentin. Quimper is dominated by a twin-spired cathedral, which was completely renovated thirty years ago. Its bright interior has countless architectural details and one curious kink: walk to the end, look back and you’ll notice that it’s not quite aligned!

Across from the cathedral is the fine arts museum, while next door – in the former Bishop’s palace – is the Musée Bréton, bursting with artefacts from Brittany. The beautiful River Odet runs through the city centre towards the seaside resort of Benodet. Walk along the riverbank slightly beyond the centre to the Locmaria district, home to Quimper’s famous ceramics industry.

Culture: Quimper is synonymous with Faïence, a glazed earthenware crafted here since 1690. The blue-and-yellow designs of HB-Henriot feature hand-painted Breton characters and flowers in naïve style; they’re instantly recognisable, particularly the iconic breakfast bowls with ‘ears’. Find examples in local shops and the Musée de la Faïence in Locmaria.

Tastebuds: Whether sweet or savoury, indulge in thin, crispy crêpes that are traditional in Brittany, ideally accompanied by local cider in a small earthenware bowl. Also try Kouign Amann, invented in nearby Douarnenez: this caramelised cake is made from bread dough, butter and sugar, but is well worth the calories!

Les Abers (Finistère)

In the very northwest of France above the city of Brest sits a little-known coastal region known as Les Abers. Here, the marine landscapes have a strangely ethereal atmosphere, and it can be hard to distinguish where the watery horizon meets the sky. The spring light and dreamlike scenery create a haven for photographers, artists and walkers, captivated by views that you simply cannot find elsewhere.

As Aber is also known as a tideway, a particular type of estuary that has a huge contrast between high tide and low tide. When the sea recedes here, you are left with vast stretches of sand that are often shrouded in mist, and where the offshore lighthouses are clearly vital: there are more per square kilometre here than anywhere else in Europe.

You can explore the Lighthouse Trail (Route des Phares) by car, on the V45 cycle trail or the GR34 coastal path. Start with Europe’s tallest lighthouse, Île Vièrge (open April to October), and follow the lighthouses south to Pointe Saint-Mathieu, which is open all year round.

Culture: At Pointe Saint-Mathieu, explore the haunting abbey ruins and the touching museum set in a former German bunker, where the history of World War Two in Brittany is told through artefacts and witness accounts.

Tastebuds: The Hostellerie de la Pointe Saint-Mathieu is a Michelin-starred restaurant run by Nolwenn Corre, the first female chef to earn a Michelin star in Finistère.

Paimpol (Côtes-d’Armor)

On the north coast, halfway between Roscoff and Saint-Malo, Paimpol is a quintessential Breton town. It has a heritage port filled with bobbing boats, winding medieval streets and pretty half-timbered houses dating back to the 1500s. Paimpol was once the top offshore fishing port in France with as many as 80 schooners sailing for six months at a time to catch cod in Newfoundland or Iceland.

Nowadays, this harbour town is more leisurely. The Tuesday-morning market brings added bustle to Place du Martray and the Latin quarter but any number of independent boutiques and galleries in Paimpol make shopping a truly pleasurable activity.

A short distance southeast of Paimpol, L’Abbaye de Beauport was once the most beautiful abbey in Brittany and is now an elegant silhouette of ruins facing the sea. It was a religious and economic hub for nearly six centuries until it was looted in the French Revolution.

Culture: Paimpol is a recognised centre for arts and crafts, and its charming streets are peppered with galleries and studios, often in historic buildings. Discover painters, sculptors, photographers and silkscreen printers, all producing unique creations.

Tastebuds: This bay is shellfish heaven, and the season runs from late September to April so it’s an ideal time to enjoy the last catches of the year. Indulge in the ‘paimpolaise’ oyster, scallops (coquilles Saint-Jacques) and crabs, and if you come later in spring, look out for the stunning Loguivy blue lobster, fished from June to December.

Vitré (Ille-et-Vilaine)

The town of Vitré sits 40km east of Rennes on the very edge of Brittany. It is packed with photo opportunities, including quirky stone houses, timbered buildings, floral window boxes, wooden carvings and higgledy-piggledy rooftops. You could easily believe you’re in a film set, particularly in the streets of En-Bas, de la Baudrairie, de la Poterie and Notre-Dame. In centuries gone by, merchants who wanted to flaunt their wealth favoured the colour green for their houses, as it was the most expensive to create.

The town centre offers a mixture of national chains and independent boutiques, with the addition of a weekly market on Monday mornings. This is where you’ll find a colourful array of clothing, jewellery and fresh produce from market-garden stalls to fishmongers.

The Château de Vitré is unmissable in all senses, and its fabulous ramparts are perfect for panoramic views of the landscape below. This castle is a combination of turrets, towers, courtyards and defensive walls, offering a real trip back in time.

Culture: Within the Château grounds, explore the museum to learn about the Barons of Vitré, discover sacred gold artefacts, a natural science collection and a cabinet of curiosities.

Tastebuds: A local speciality is named after the French aristocrat and writer, Madame de Sévigné, who lived near the town. La roulade Sévigné consists of boneless guinea fowl stuffed with mushrooms, walnuts and apples: look for it on the local menus!

Sarzeau (Morbihan)

For a perfect spring escape, head south of Vannes to the Morbihan Gulf, a natural harbour dotted with tiny islands. Cradling this gulf is Rhuys Peninsula, around 10km long and 2km wide, whose landscapes change from sandy beaches to rocky coasts and salt marshes.

The town of Sarzeau sits halfway along this peninsula, about 30 minutes from Vannes. The long, sandy beaches are perfect for family breaks, while walkers and cyclists will love the various trails that criss-cross the peninsula, offering photo-worthy views at every turn. If the water calls to you, take a short boat trip to the Île aux Moines, where you can relax, cycle or walk the entire coastal circuit of 18km.

Culture: The Château de Suscinio is a former residence of the Dukes of Brittany. Surrounded by salt marshes, this impressive structure fell into ruins but has been gradually restored since the 1960s. Walk the parapets, visit the Grand Lodge, try a crossbow and enjoy a light-and-sound show on certain dates.

Tastebuds: Don’t miss the free visits at Tome de Rhuys cheese farm, where you can meet the dairy cows, taste the incredible cheese and see how it’s made.

By Annaliza Davis – an editor, translator and writer. She lives in Brittany after falling in love with the area on a school exchange and loves to explore the coast with her scruffy dog Mimi!

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