Transhumance in France – the Auvergne region

Transhumance in France – the Auvergne region
Transhumance in France
The Transhumance in Allanche © Jeremy Flint

 The ancient tradition of Transhumance is thriving in France says Jeremy Flint as he joins a herd on the move in the Auvergne region.

Transhumance in France

The custom of transhumance, the seasonal movement of livestock, is an age-old custom, practiced in France for more than 1000 years. It’s a seasonal event in which cows, sheep and even goats are guided by humans to feed on favourable pastures according to the time of year: higher, cooler, pasture-rich land in summer, then moving to lower land, where the wind is not so bitter, in winter.

In December 2023, the tradition was recognised by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity acknowledging the importance of preserving transhumance (especially in Europe), for future generations.

The Transhumance takes place across France – in Provence, the Pyrenees, the Alps, the Massif Central, Corsica, the Vosges, the Jura, and Auvergne. Herders leave parched summer plains and journey to mountain pastures that are rich in biodiversity and yield exceptional milk, cheese and meat.

Transhumance in Auvergne – Cantal

Nicolas and Julian Theron, farmers who uphold the tradition of transhumance in Auvergne
Nicolas and Julian Theron, farmers who uphold the tradition of transhumance in Auvergne © Jeremy Flint

In the town of Allanche, nestled in the Cantal department of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of France, transhumance remains a vital part of the local culture. Farmers, including Julian and Nicolas, the 4th generation of the Theron family, continue to uphold the tradition, moving their livestock to cooler uplands from mid-spring to mid-autumn, to the lush meadows, hills, and mountains in the heart of the volcanic Cézallier plateau. “The grass is natural without pesticides and the hills are not cultivated” “says Julian.

Blessing of the cows - Transhumance in France
Blessing of the cows © Jeremy Flint

The annual migration takes place at the end of May after the celebrations of the Fête de l’Estive (Summer Pasture Festival) in Allanche. Some 40,000 visitors arrive in the town to join in the fun and witness droves of mahogany-coloured Salers cows being paraded through the streets by farmers who are considered ‘guardians of transhumance,’ keeping the mountain tradition alive. This authentic celebration starts with a blessing of the cows by the priest on a hill outside the town. The cows then march to the town, some festively adorned with ribbons and bells, guided by the farmers. The route is packed with enthusiasts from all over France – and no wonder, it is a spectacular sight.

Julian and Nicolas have taken part in the festival since boyhood, Nicolas’s daughters and Julian’s son help decorate their cows. The family bring around 60 of their best specimens, their pride and joy, to the procession, along with other farmers and their cows. The atmosphere in the town is festive, there’s street entertainment including music and dance, food vendors, a magnificent market, plus an agricultural show.

Julian says, “it’s an honour to be a part of the festival and showcase our wonderful animals. The cows are relaxed and know exactly what’s going on. They are excited with what’s to come.”

© Jeremy Flint

The following day, the celebration of rural heritage resumes when the public can hike in the footsteps of the herds along their ascent to the rural landscape beyond. This is considered the “proper French thing to do,” and you’re welcomed into the community as you follow the pastoral paths in a ritual passed down through the generations.

© Jeremy Flint

 In October, the cows are guided back to the lower pastures and warm stables for the winter months. Nicolas says, “farming and sustaining the tradition of transhumance requires a lot of work, but we love it.”

Allanche itself is a great little market town. It’s long been associated with livestock and there are beautiful bourgeois style mansions that once belonged to prosperous dealers. The Monument de l’Estive – a monument of a Salers cow and calf – stands in the Place du Cézallier. Crafted entirely from volcanic stone, the statue is a tribute to the Salers cattle and the summer transhumance.

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