The Gastronomy of Uzès

Between the Cévennes hills and the sun-drenched plains of the Languedoc, medieval Uzès is not only one of the most beautiful towns in southern France, but also one of the most delicious. From ancient confectionery traditions to tasty truffle dishes, the gastronomy of Uzès and the wider Gard department reflects a rich terroir shaped by olive groves, vineyards, and Mediterranean influences.

Whether you’re wandering through the Place aux Herbes with a basket of market produce, or lingering over a glass of local wine, the culinary credentials of sun-kissed Uzès are truly scrumptious.

Savoury classics

The region has several savoury specialities, including brandade de morue, a salty, silky blend of cod, olive oil, cream and garlic. Served warm spread on bread or bread fried in olive oil – it’s a classic taste of southern France. There’s also Petit pâté nîmois which is said to have been invented in nearby Nimes in the early 1800s – a spiced meat pie made with veal and pork. Tapenade, a mix of olives, anchovies and garlic is a firm favourite with aperitifs – include Cartagène, a local fortified wine. Pélardon goat’s cheese from the Cévennes, one of Europe’s oldest cheeses is a must-eat. Buy it at the weekly market or Fromagerie Albert in Place Albert 1er near the tourist office.

The countryside around Uzès is like a pantry of Mediterranean flavours. Olive groves dominate the landscape, producing high-quality oils; black truffles love the sun and the terroir, and sweet Onions from Vers-Pont du Gard (in September there is a market dedicated to this delicious product).

A great place to taste all that is delicious in the area, Les Compagnons du Terroir is just  a few kilometres from Uzès, in the medieval village of Castillon-du-Gard, and has become a tourist attraction in its own right – an absolute must for anyone who likes to eat delicious food. It’s a shop with more than 2500 products and a superb, terraced café – great for a glass of wine, coffee, and what they call a ‘tasting snack’ – and I call a feast!

The enormous choice of products includes Picholine olives from 20km away, bull saucisson from the Camargue, Pélardon from nearby pottery town Lussan, pompe a l’huille with olive oil from Uzès, considered a Christmas treat “but it’s too good to only year once a year” I was told as I tucked in. Brandade, the local fish paste from Nimes, is spread on bread from a boulangerie in Uzès, “the baker makes it like it used to be on the table of grandma, it’s so special” I’m told. The delicious products represent the culinary flavours of this area. Open year round, you can buy in the shop and eat there at lunch time or try a tasting. Throughout July and August, the shop and terrace – which has a guinguette style ambiance – open until late on Fridays

Sweet things

Uzès has long been famous for liquorice. Introduced as a medicinal plant, it evolved into a thriving confectionery industry in the 19th century, with factories established in the town in the 1800s. The famous French Zan liquorice brand was created here, giving Uzès’ a reputation as the French capital of liquorice. Today, that heritage lives on under the Haribo name, which acquired the local confectionery business in the late 1900s. Just on the outskirts of Uzès town, you can visit the Haribo Museum where the story of sweets is brought to life – including a tasting, and where the enormous shop is the stuff of dreams for the sweet-toothed!

In the town look out for Croquets d’Uzès – crisp almond biscuits, Figatine – a rich fig and almond confection, Nougat, calissons and other Provençal treats. Chocolate fans will love Mes Chocolates in Boulevard Gambetta. Made by master chocolatier Alfonso Cannarozzo who uses cocoa products and works with local producers the choice of chocolates is innovative and utterly irresistible. Yvette who works in the shop can help you choose, tell her what flavours you like “to help you indulge your passion” she says. For me she recommended ginger and jus de citron – mouth-wateringly good!

Wine

The Romans left behind not just buildings – but a love of wine, and this region is one of the oldest wine growing areas of Europe. Fruity red wines, white wines and delicate rosés are all produced and local makers share their expert know-how with a varied range of oenological experiences including discovery trails through the vineyards, oenology classes, tastings and workshops.

Several domains combine art and vines such as the  Domaine Deleuze Rochetin, the Domaine de Malaïgue and the Domaine de Panéry where 14 vintages are made – including a natural sparkling wine, and has an art gallery that’s free to visit. The wine tasting experience is superb, and in general Gard wines are cheaper than most areas of southern France. Panéry also has one of the largest olive orchards in France and recently discovered evidence revealed that the Romans grew olives on this site 2000 years ago. There’s also a fabulous restaurant – their Sunday Brunch is legendary in these parts – and a very reasonably priced lunch time menu; plus luxury hotel accommodation.

Uzès market

At the centre of Uzès lies the enchanting Place aux Herbes, a beautifully preserved medieval square shaded by plane trees and framed by arcaded buildings. For centuries, this has been the town’s commercial and social hub. In the past, fruit and vegetable markets were known as ‘herb markets’– hence the name – the tradition continues with lively markets held twice a week (Wednesday and Saturday).

Where to eat

There are so many great restaurants in Uzès it’s hard to know where to start!

Bistro du Chai opened summer 2025 and has gained a stellar reputation with the locals – in a town that already has such a great choice of restaurants, that’s a real achievement. With an open kitchen, great wine list, tasty food it’s one of the best.

Les Terroirs in Place aux Herbes offers great food, a fabulous view over the fountain in the centre, and at night, when the lights twinkle in the trees, it’s quite magical.

La Villa Curti in the centre of Uzès is superb, on a sunny day under the vine covered terrace, you’ll feel less like you’ve taken a break to eat, and more you’ve had a mini holiday!

Vieux Café on the plane tree lined main avenue is great for people watching, and locals love to meet here for beer, tapas, snacks.

Le Ten, off Place aux Herbes, is tiny but has a great menu and Midi a l’Ombre has a great chef, refined food, beautiful restaurant – don’t miss the chocolate dessert!

Events

There’s always something going on throughout the year, with iconic events that celebrate local heritage, food and drink and culture. Festivals, traditional celebrations, markets and gourmet events are held all year long: a wine fair in August, black truffles from the Uzès countryside, celebrated each winter – the whole town smells of truffles in January and February; and the Saveurs et Savoirs festival in October.

Discover more about Uzès: uzes-pontdugard.com/en

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