French Restaurant Review: Restaurant Le Clos de la Tour, Gilly-lès-Cîteaux
I first discovered young chef Julien Martin’s cooking when he was working as head chef in Collias in Le Gard, not far from the Pont du Gard. Here he’d won a Michelin star for his exquisitely refined but potent cooking, including two dishes I’ll always remember. First-of-season asparagus cooked in olive oil, a poached quail’s egg, crushed hazelnuts and a luscious hollandaise sauce made with…














